In order to climb the summit of king Ortles at 3905m, you should stay the day before at the Julius-Payer hut (3.029m). After spending the night at the hut, you will climb up to the "Wandl", which is probably the technically most difficult part of the entire ascent. Now we cross the somewhat steep traverse at the upper end of the "Eisrinne", which has meanwhile become outdated in the upper section and which leads us over the "Bärenloch" up to "Tschierfegg" where the biv. Lombardi is located. This section has become more difficult in recent years due to the severe glacier retreat and you have to overcome a challenging ramp. The "Tschierfegg" is immediately followed by crevasse-rich terrain and a rather steep slope. Above we reach the gentle Ortler plateau where the ascent to the summit is moderate.
From the Rifugio Payer (which can be reached from Solda on path no. 4 in about 3 hours) the ascent to the highest mountain in South Tyrol takes place. We cross the north-western flank of the Punta Tabaretta and climb up to the "Wandl". Now we cross the somewhat steep traverse at the upper end of the "Eisrinne", which leads us over the "Bärenloch" up to "Tschierfegg". After "Tschierfegg" we reach the Ortler plateau above where we continue to the summit.
Description to arrive at destination
From Spondigna/Spondinig via the street to the Stelvio Pass SS 38 to Gomagoi, then left to Solda. From Spondigna to the parking area is it approx. 20 km.
In order to get to the starting point, the parking area at the beginning of the village is the most suitable.
If you do not want to travel to Solda by private car, you can use the pubblic transport. With the bus line 271 you get from Prato allo Stelvio/Spondigna to Solda in about half an hour. The bus stop is located directly at the tourist office Solda.
All the informations about the hike is without guarantee. Hiker should look at the weather forecast and plan the tour as best as possible.
Never start the tour without consulting a mountain guide. If you have little experience, always climb the summit accompanied by a mountain guide.
Perfect climbing and ice climbing equipment!